Thursday, February 19, 2009
Surf was epic today
I had class until 12:30, then I jumped in my car and headed to Carolina Beach. My brother met me there with my boards. I paddled out with my 7'6" Proline and couldn't catch anything. So I went and grabbed my 9'0" Perfection and paddled back out. First I caught an over head bomb. Biggest wave I ever caught. I dropped quick and bottom turned and that was it. A few minutes later I was hooted into another head high wave. Dropped in, bottom turned and saw a big wall in front of me. I tucked in, knelt down and started hauling ass down line. It eventually closed out but it was a hell of a ride.
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